Deer Processing - Tender Cuts - Port Colborne Ontario
Bowhunter Magazine
Ontario Federations of Anglers and Hunters
Hunting Ontario
Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources
Canadian Wild Turkey Federation
Ducks Unlimited: Canada & Ontario
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and other tick-borne diseases like Bartonella, Babesia, Ehrlichia, Tularemia, Powassan virus, Mycoplasmas.
Not affiliated but for more information visit:
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www.murakamicentreforlyme.org
Not affiliated but some great options for repellents and yard control:
Cedarcide, Atlantick,
Educate yourself on Lyme disease a.k.a. Borreliosis
and other tick-borne diseases like Bartonella, Babesia, Ehrlichia, Tularemia, Powassan virus, Mycoplasmas.
Not affiliated but for more information visit:
www.canlyme.com
www.ilads.org
www.murakamicentreforlyme.org
FAQ
COMMON Q & A's
Q: I'm unsure how to prepare my animal for taxidermy.
A: We have videos on field preparation posted HERE
to help guide you. If you're still unsure we can answer questions to help avoid a ruined cape/hide or costly repairs, or I can do it for you for a fee CONTACT HERE
Q: How soon should I cape/skin the animal?
A: The sooner the better. Working on a warm animal makes skinning much easier however, if the weather is cold (45 degrees/7 celcius) or lower, the task can wait if time is an issue.
Q: Can I put my cape on ice?
A: Yes providing the cape stays dry. Getting a cape wet can cause bacterial formation that can lead to issues in preservation. COOL & DRY is always the rule.
Q: Can I salt my cape/hide?
A: Yes. If the weather is warm and there is no refrigeration/freezer available. Always plan ahead if your hunt is remote!
Q: Is it OK to leave the head intact and just salt the cape/hide?
A: NO. The entire hide needs to be properly fleshed and salted. If you are hunting a remote area, be prepared. Educate yourself on caping out an animal completely and proper salting techniques prior to your hunt.
There is nothing a Taxidermist can do if there is decomposition. Again , if you're still unsure please contact me prior to your hunt.
Q: Should I salt a cape/hide prior to freezing?
A: NO. Think of it this way, you put salt on your steps to melt ice - you don't want to inhibit freezing that can cause issues with preservation.
Q: Can I put my cape/hide in a plastic bag?
A: Never put a warm cape/hide in a plastic bag. Use something breathable (EG Burlap) so there is airflow. Once the cape/hide is completely cooled it can be put into a plastic bag for freezing/transport.
Q: How should I roll/fold my cape/hide for freezing and what should I put it in?
A: Never roll the head to the inside as the hide/fur acts as insulation causing the head to be the last thing to freeze. If at all possible, lay the cape/hide in the freezer un-bagged for a few hours to chill and then place in a heavy plastic bag (EG Garbage bag), doubled if you can, to prevent freezer burn.
Q: If I'd like to have a mount done, how long can I leave my cape/hide etc, in the freezer?
A: It's always best to process things sooner than later but, a properly wrapped specimen can last over a year.
Q: I just picked up a bird of prey, what do I need to do?
A: You are required to do an online report with the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) prior to having any taxidermy work done. I require a copy of that report when you bring the bird in.
Q: How do I freeze a bird that I intend to have mounted?
A: As with all mounts, a nice bird mount starts in the field and a mature bird with full plumage is always best. A badly shot up bird is likely not a good candidate. HANDLE IT GENTLY and by the feet only. Do not wring the neck or gut it. Place the bird in a freezer bag with the wings folded in a natural resting position. DO NOT place any heavy items on it while in storage.
*FOR TURKEYS: IF YOU WANT THE MEAT you will need to bring the bird to me immediately and if I'm available, I can get the appropriate measurements and skin the bird while you wait. There will be a service fee. As with all mounts, a nice bird mount starts in the field and a mature bird with full plumage is always best. A badly shot up bird is likely not a good candidate, obviously this does not apply to the head. (For archery kills the bird would need to be assessed.) HANDLE IT GENTLY and by the feet only. Do not wring the neck or gut it. After the bird has cooled (hanging by feet is best) place the bird in a freezer bag with the wings folded in a natural resting position. DO NOT place any heavy items on it while in storage and be sure the tail is not bent when placed in the freezer as this can damage the quills.
Q: How do I care for my mount?
A: Never vacuum! An occasional light dusting with a feather or static duster. Wipe antlers with a light coat of lemon oil once a year. Clean eyes (on mammals only) with a tiny amount of glass cleaner on a Q-tip.
For instructions on cleaning rugs please call.
Q: Can I put my mount over the fireplace or a wood stove.
A: Although we admit it looks good, excessive rising heat can damage and prematurely age your mount.
A: We have videos on field preparation posted HERE
to help guide you. If you're still unsure we can answer questions to help avoid a ruined cape/hide or costly repairs, or I can do it for you for a fee CONTACT HERE
Q: How soon should I cape/skin the animal?
A: The sooner the better. Working on a warm animal makes skinning much easier however, if the weather is cold (45 degrees/7 celcius) or lower, the task can wait if time is an issue.
Q: Can I put my cape on ice?
A: Yes providing the cape stays dry. Getting a cape wet can cause bacterial formation that can lead to issues in preservation. COOL & DRY is always the rule.
Q: Can I salt my cape/hide?
A: Yes. If the weather is warm and there is no refrigeration/freezer available. Always plan ahead if your hunt is remote!
- 3 lbs salt (non iodized or cattle feed/hay mixing salt is fine) for an average deer cape
- 20 Kg bag is plenty for a bear hide
Q: Is it OK to leave the head intact and just salt the cape/hide?
A: NO. The entire hide needs to be properly fleshed and salted. If you are hunting a remote area, be prepared. Educate yourself on caping out an animal completely and proper salting techniques prior to your hunt.
There is nothing a Taxidermist can do if there is decomposition. Again , if you're still unsure please contact me prior to your hunt.
Q: Should I salt a cape/hide prior to freezing?
A: NO. Think of it this way, you put salt on your steps to melt ice - you don't want to inhibit freezing that can cause issues with preservation.
Q: Can I put my cape/hide in a plastic bag?
A: Never put a warm cape/hide in a plastic bag. Use something breathable (EG Burlap) so there is airflow. Once the cape/hide is completely cooled it can be put into a plastic bag for freezing/transport.
Q: How should I roll/fold my cape/hide for freezing and what should I put it in?
A: Never roll the head to the inside as the hide/fur acts as insulation causing the head to be the last thing to freeze. If at all possible, lay the cape/hide in the freezer un-bagged for a few hours to chill and then place in a heavy plastic bag (EG Garbage bag), doubled if you can, to prevent freezer burn.
Q: If I'd like to have a mount done, how long can I leave my cape/hide etc, in the freezer?
A: It's always best to process things sooner than later but, a properly wrapped specimen can last over a year.
Q: I just picked up a bird of prey, what do I need to do?
A: You are required to do an online report with the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) prior to having any taxidermy work done. I require a copy of that report when you bring the bird in.
Q: How do I freeze a bird that I intend to have mounted?
A: As with all mounts, a nice bird mount starts in the field and a mature bird with full plumage is always best. A badly shot up bird is likely not a good candidate. HANDLE IT GENTLY and by the feet only. Do not wring the neck or gut it. Place the bird in a freezer bag with the wings folded in a natural resting position. DO NOT place any heavy items on it while in storage.
*FOR TURKEYS: IF YOU WANT THE MEAT you will need to bring the bird to me immediately and if I'm available, I can get the appropriate measurements and skin the bird while you wait. There will be a service fee. As with all mounts, a nice bird mount starts in the field and a mature bird with full plumage is always best. A badly shot up bird is likely not a good candidate, obviously this does not apply to the head. (For archery kills the bird would need to be assessed.) HANDLE IT GENTLY and by the feet only. Do not wring the neck or gut it. After the bird has cooled (hanging by feet is best) place the bird in a freezer bag with the wings folded in a natural resting position. DO NOT place any heavy items on it while in storage and be sure the tail is not bent when placed in the freezer as this can damage the quills.
Q: How do I care for my mount?
A: Never vacuum! An occasional light dusting with a feather or static duster. Wipe antlers with a light coat of lemon oil once a year. Clean eyes (on mammals only) with a tiny amount of glass cleaner on a Q-tip.
For instructions on cleaning rugs please call.
Q: Can I put my mount over the fireplace or a wood stove.
A: Although we admit it looks good, excessive rising heat can damage and prematurely age your mount.